Blog Moving!

Hi Everyone!  Just wanted to let you know, I've purchased a domain and launched a new web-hosted blog that allows me more options:  http://www.thenaturallyhealthyhorse.com.  The new blog will be very much like this one, only with more detailed posts (with more pictures).  I will likely be transferring many of the posts from The Handy Horse Owner and expanding them on the new blog.  I will still focus on natural horse health--with an emphasis on acupressure, natural trimming, and nutrition.  Hope you'll check out th e new blog and follow The Naturally Healthy Horse!

Casie

The Sole: A Guide for Natural Trimming

As Pete Ramey, the natural trimming guru, says, "the sole of the foot is the most abused and misunderstood part of the domestic horse (with the possible exception of its digestive system)."  I have come to see the truth in this. 

I watched many a farrier pare out the soles of my horses' feet over the years and thought nothing of it-- paring the sole is common practice in order to prepare the hoof for the shoe.  In all actuality, the paring of the sole is one of the many common practices used by traditional farriers that keep the horse in need of the shoe.  Cutting into live sole makes the horse sore and increases the risk for solar abcesses.

Natural trimming uses the sole as a central guideline for trimming the hoof.  Many barefoot experts agree that he sole should share in weightbearing along with the hoof wall.  In fact, the only way a horse's sole can toughen and become callused is for it to be allowed to share in the horse's weightbearing.  This is done by keeping the walls trimmed just barely above the sole. And by leaving the live sole alone, you can allow it to build up and thicken--this, too, is critical for barefoot success.

Of course, when the shoes are first pulled, it can be difficult to determine just what is live and what is dead sole.  By using a hoof pick or hoof knive, you can usually scrape away the dead sole fairly easily (unless the hoof is extremely dry).  I've found that dead sole tends to build up in the seats of corn (the little 'v' on each side of the back of the hoof).  It usually looks white and crumbly when it's coming out. If the bars are extremely overgrown, they can fold over and cover up the sole, too.  When this happens, the folded-over bars need to go.   If you're ever in doubt, just leave things alone though.  Better to do too little than too much.  

If the walls and the heels are kept in check, the sole will share in the horses's weightbearing and will eventually toughen and move upward.  Of course diet, exercis,e and environment play a critical role in creating a callused sole as well.  If the horse's diet is out of whack and he only stands on soft, green grass all day, the sole will never toughen.  A balanced diet, movement, and access to varied terrain (pea gravel is great for this) are all necessary for a tough hoof.

For anyone interested in learning more about the sole or natural trimming in general, I recommend you start at Pete Ramey's website.  This article is specifically about the sole.

Ta-ta!

Hoof Boots

If you're making the transition from shoes to barefoot with your horses, hoof boots are a must--that is if you plan on riding your horse during the transition!  Why is this?  Well, there are several reasons. 

Genetically, our domestic horses' hooves aren't any different from those of wild horses, but the environment and housing conditions we've created for our horses usually aren't ideal for supporting a tough and thick-soled hoof.  Not that it can't be done--it will just take some ingenuity.  In the mean time, you'll need some form of protection for those hooves, and this is where hoof boots come into play.

I was already familiar with hoof boots when I began the transition to barefoot with my horses a few years ago.  My mother always kept a hoof boot with her on endurance rides in case she lost a shoe.  It was a pretty simple boot that was meant for short-time use.  Well, boots have changed a lot in recent years, and there are quite a few options out there now.  I would venture to say they make a boot for every horse and just about every need now. 

I'm embarassed to admit, when I ordered my first boot, I only ordered one, thinking they came as a pair.  That one boot cost about $80, and I even complained to the customer service lady that I thought that was too expensive.  She said, "Well, compare that to the cost of shoes, which you have to replace every 6 weeks."  Touché!  If fitted correctly, boots can last for years. 

I now own five pairs of boots--enough to fit all my horses.  I have one old mare I always use them with if I'm not riding in the arena.  She had been in shoes for nearly twenty years until she came to my place last year.  She does great with her Easy boot Epics though. 

If you're looking into boots for your horse, I suggest checking out the EasyCare page.  They have a wide variety of boots, plus helpful information for sizing.  Once you figure out which boot you want, you can price shop on E-bay or another site.  I found a Boot Swap page where you can buy and sell used boots as well.

Of course, the goal with going barefoot is to eventually get to just that--barefoot.  With the correct trim, a healthy diet, and regular exercise, your horse should get there.  In the meantime, or with horses that have foundered, use the boots.  They've made all the difference for my horses.

Ta-ta!

What's in Your Hay?

Whether you feed prairie, bermuda, alfalfa, or any other type of hay, it's hard to know what's really in your forage.  The only sure-fire way to know is to have it analyzed.  Having your hay (or pasture) analyzed may not be for the everyday horse person, but for those who truly want to know how their horse's dietary needs are being met, it's the way to go.  The National Research Council (NRC) has established the horse's nutrient requirements, and these will serve as guidelines in balancing your horse's diet.  Several years ago, I took Dr. Eleanor Kellon's NRC Plus course as part of my equine acupressure education, and I learned how to balance my horses' diets by using a hay/ pasture analysis.  I have to say, it was a very eye-opening experience.

I'm no math whiz, but I'm proud to say that I now balance my five horses' diets at least twice a year so I can supplement whichever nutrients are lacking in their forage.  Since we cut our own hay here on our property, my hay analysis results are fairly consistent each time--our hay pastures are lacking in magnesium, copper, and zinc mainly.  My goal now is to add those minerals to the soil to get a more mineral-sufficient horse hay. 

So how does one get started with a hay analysis?  The first thing you need to do is borrow (from your county extension office) or buy a hay corer in order to obtain a sample.  Many local universities can analyze your hay for you, but I get a pretty thorough analysis from Equi-Analytical.  It's not all that expensive, either.  I ship off the sample (pasture is a little more complicated to sample and ship than hay) and usually receive the analysis the next week.

Before balancing diets, I get a fairly accurate estimate of each horse's weight.  Then, using my analysis, I determine each horse's digestible energy (DE) needs and the amount of hay needed to meet those needs.  From there, I figure out how much protein and mineral content is in each horse's ration to see where deficiencies appear. 

As I said earlier, I've had to supplement magnesium, zinc, and copper on a regular basis.  I've also had to occasionally supplement phosphorous.  Last year, with the drought conditions, I had to supplement protein as well.  That may be the case again this year.  You might be wondering where you can buy individual minerals like these--I order mine online from Horsetech, but there are several companies that sell them, and some are even available (like magnesium-oxide) at feed mills. 

If you're inexperienced in balancing, I don't recommend you attempt to balance your horse's diet by yourself. You should instead, seek out an equine nutritionist to do this using your hay analysis.  If you really have the interest of learning to do this yourself though, take Dr. Kellon's NRC Plus course--it's online.  I have to warn you, though, you'll never look at your horse's feeding program the same!

Ta-ta!

Hoof Moisture Content

If you're like me, you've probably always wondered if those hoof oils and moisturizers are really doing anything for your horse's hooves.  I once used Rainmaker religiously with the belief that it might help eliminate cracks and seal moisture into the hoof.

Well, as it turns out, using those topical hoof agents might be totally unnecessary (and a waste of money!)  A few weeks ago, I came across an interesting study about environmental effects on hoof wall hydration.  I wrote about it in a recent article for The Horse.  The study was performed using wild horse hooves (from culling operations) from three different environments in New Zealand and Australia.  No matter where the hooves came from-- dry, semi-arid, or a wet environment-- the hoof wall moisture content measured about the same averaging 29.5%.  This led the researchers to conclude that environment plays little to no role in hoof wall moisture content. 

In the same study, the researchers also measured the moisture content of a dry hoof vs. a hoof soaked in water for two hours (using domestic horses this time).  Again, the moisture content was the same for both the dry and soaked hooves.  They did, however, find that the sole increased in moisture content as a result of soaking.  This isn't necessarily a good thing though, since it might make the sole more prone to bruising or damage.  

The lead researcher mentioned to me that the moisture content of the hoof seems to be controlled by  internal circulation.  That makes sense.  Horses evolved in arid environments, so why would they have hooves that need constant moisturizing?  If wet environments or soaking don't add more moisture to the hoof, then hoof oils probably don't do much either (except make them look pretty for a short time!)   

As for those pesky cracks, as I've learned more about natural hoof care and equine nutrition, I've realized that most of those are caused by overgrown hooves or deficient nutrition instead of 'dryness'.  You can put Rainmaker or a similar product on all day long, and the cracks won't go away.  If you focus on proper hoof care and nutrition for your horse though, you should see a difference.  

Ta-ta!

Hay Alternatives for Horses

Hay and pasture provide horses with the fiber that is essential for their well-being, but what to do when pastures dry up and hay is scarce?  The alternatives may be more expensive, but they can help your horse get through periods when hay cannot be found.  The key is to not be fooled into thinking you can replace forage with concentrates--the effects could be detrimental to your horse, upsetting the digestive system and increasing chances for colic.  A horse needs to eat roughly one pound of roughage for every 100 pounds of body weight, and even most complete feeds can't offer this when fed in directed amounts.

When hay is scarce, you may want to increase your concentrates some, but finding an alternative fiber source is important.  Here are some options:

• Alfalfa cubes (best to feed soaked to reduce chances of choke)
• beet pulp
• high quality haylage or silage
• Soy or cottonseed hulls
• Ontario Dehydrated Timothy Cubes
• Chopped hays

It's best not to substitute these 'hay replacers' for a horse's full ration of hay, but use them instead to help stretch your limited hay supply.  If no hay can be found whatsoever, they are definitely better than just feeding concentrates though.  

Ta-ta!

Oral Glucosamine and Chondroitin for Horses

Over the years, I, like many horse owners, have spent a small fortune in oral supplements for my horses.  Of course, I assumed they were doing some good, but that little voice in the back of my mind would often pipe up, "Are these things really working?"  Well, there's no way to really tell, is there?

Well, the good news is, studies are showing that neutraceutical agents, such as glucosamine and chondroitin DO have an effect, especially on horses with mild osteoarthritis.  Glad to know not all of my money went down the drain (or into the manure)!

I recently wrote an article published by The Horse about the effects of glucosamine and chondroitin on equine OA.  According to the scientific study I wrote about, urinary GAG's (glycosaminoglycans) are a reliable indicator of cartilage turnover rates.  When horses were fed glucosamine and/or chondroitin sulphate, urinary GAG's increased, indicating that cartilage was most likely trying to repair itself.  GAG output remained high even after a 30-day  supplementation ended--this seems to show that the supplements had an ongoing effect in the horse. 

According to well-known equine nutrition expert, Dr. Eleanor Kellon, the amount of glucosamine and chondroitin you give your horse is important.    Her recommendation for a 1000 lb horse is 7.5-10 grams of glucosamine and 5000-6000 mg of chondroitin a day.  Of course, this amount will need to be adjusted for a smaller or larger horse.  She also recommends givng the two nutraceuticals, together.  Fortunately, many joint supplements contain both.

Dr. Kellon says, "I can tell you without a shadow of a doubt that oral joint supplements work."  She's participated in or led several studies to help prove that as well.   Between Dr. Kellon's work and other studies I've read, I'm convinced.  Before you go to get joint injections for your horse, you may want to try glucosamine and chondroitin.  It just may make a difference and save you money in the long run.  

Ta-ta!

Salt for Horses

Sodium Chloride (salt):  It's one of the essential mineral compounds needed by animals.  Why?  It's part of our composition, and it's lost through blood, sweat, and tears (not the band!) It constantly needs to be replenished, and when horses are sweating more (like in the 110 temps we're having in Oklahoma right now), even more salt should be made available for horses.

Most horse owners are familiar with salt blocks, and they're an easy way to provide salt (and minerals).  The problem with salt blocks is that you can't control how much your horse is getting.  Many horses won't lick the block enough to meet their salt requirements, and some horses will bite into the block, getting too much salt and risking harm to their teeth or jaw.  Salt and mineral blocks were designed for cattle--they just spilled over to the horse industry because of their convenience.  Cattle have rougher tongues which make it easier for them to obtain their needed amount of salt from the block.  With that said, I fed salt blocks to my horses for many years without problems, and I do believe they're better than no salt at all.

The average-sized horse needs about 30 grams (1 oz) of sodium chloride a day.  Keep in mind, this requirement will go up (to 2-3 oz) if the horse is in work and consistently having sweat losses.  Even a horse just standing in the pasture when it's hot can have sweat losses and would require a greater amount of salt.

You may not know that grasses, hays, and most commercial feeds contain salt.  It is possible, though not likely, (unless you feed a large amount of a commercial feed) that your horse is getting the basic salt requirements (before sweat losses) without supplementation.  Oversupplementation of salt is believed to be unhealthy, so the best way to know how much to supplement is to calculate how much he is already getting in his diet.  This can be done by examining feed labels and having hay/ pastures samples analyzed by a company such as Equi-Analytical.  

Since salt is a compound needed by the body, salt deficiencies can have harmful consequences including reduced performance and  increased susceptibility to illness.  Consuming salt also encourages the horse to drink, and sufficient water intake is important for proper digestive function as well.

Whether you feed salt with a block or loose, just make sure your horse is getting enough salt in his diet. I feed loose iodized salt (the kind you get from the grocery store) to help meet iodine needs as well, but nearly any type of loose salt can meet sodium and chloride requirements for your horse.

Ta-ta!

Economical Hay Feeding

Forage is the most important part of any horse's diet, and most horse owners understand this.  When we get in a drought situation like the Midwest has been in the last couple of years, finding (and affording) quality hay can be quite difficult, though.  Knowing how to make your hay last can save you a lot of money and stress in a situation like this.

If you're like many horse owners, you may feed round bales for their convenience and more affordable price.  Horses are notorious for wasting round bales, though--so are you really saving money in the long run?  I've found that when I feed a round bale on the ground, my horses waste almost half of it.  I had the opportunity to write an article about the economics of round bale feeders for The Horse last winter, and according to the study I wrote about, using round bale feeders can save you quite a bit.  I decided to give it a try.

I looked at buying a round bale feeder, but we decided to convert a homemade cattle hay feeder into a horse one instead.  It's pictured above.  Boy, did it make a difference.   Instead of having a round bale last two weeks before my two geldings stomped, peed, and pooped on it, I found that it now lasted nearly twice as long.  I'm not sure we would have made it through the winter with enough hay if we hadn't used it.  The only thing I would watch out for with round bale feeders is making sure they are horse-safe.

If you really want to save money though, I'm convinced that square bales are the way to go.  Sure, they're a little more work, but you can control how much each horse gets and have very little wastage.  A horse needs to eat approximately 2% of its body weight a day, so if you can get a fairly accurate estimate of how much your horse weighs, you can determine exactly how much hay you need to feed.  I bought a fish scale that I can weigh my hay with so I don't have to guess.  My 1200 lb gelding needs to eat about 24 pounds of hay, whereas my 900 lb mare only needs about 18 pounds of hay.

Whether you're feeding round bales or square bales, feed smart and you can save hay and money.  If you do end up running out of hay, don't panic--you can still make do with hay replacers like beet pulp or pelleted/cubed hay.  See this article for tips on feeding those.

Ta-ta!

The Benefits of Beet Pulp

With the wide assortment of commercial bagged feeds available today, many horse owners can become overwhelmed when trying to choose the best feed for their horse.  A few years ago, I went back to the basics, feeding such things as whole oats, rice bran, and beet pulp.  If you look at  feed labels, these are common ingredients in most commercial feeds, but you can buy them individually much cheaper usually.  I'd like to focus on beet pulp for this post though--many folks just aren't aware of what it is or what it can do for the horse.

When you look at beet pulp, it hardly looks edible, but the horses don't seem to notice.  A by-product in the table sugar-making process, beet pulp surprisingly contains relatively little sugar itself.  Manufactuers usually add molasses for palatibility and to reduce dust, though.  Beet pulp contains approximately 10% protein and 18% fiber, making it easily digestible.  It comes in shreds or pellets, but most prefer the shredded form.

There are quite a few myths surrounding the feeding of beet pulp (despite the fact that it's a common ingredient in many commercial feeds).  One feed store owner told me it would 'swell up' in the horse's stomach and cause colic.  Others have said it causes choke or has no nutritional value.  These myths have all proven to be false, though.

While you wouldn't want to feed beet pulp as your sole source of nutrition since it's relatively low in vitamin and mineral content, it's great as a 'carrier' for minerals and can also be fed mixed with another feed such as oats, rice bran, etc.  Most people choose to soak beet pulp before feeding, but it can be fed dry.  The following are some of the benefits of beet pulp:

• Can be used as a forage replacer (up to 25-50% of forage) for horses who can't eat hay or when hay is in limited supply
• Helps 'hard-keepers' hold weight and can safely help underweight horses gain wieght
• Acts as a pre-biotic, setting up favorable conditions for the 'good bacteria' to grow in the horse's gut
• Contains relatively low sugar content, making it safe for obese, insulin-resistant, or laminitic horses in most cases (use non-molasses beet pulp or soak and rinse for the least amount of sugar)
• Safe to feed for older horses with dental problems when served as a mash

Beet pulp may not be the answer for every horse, but I've fed it to my horses for the last few years as part of a forage-based diet and have been very happy with it.  It may be something you'd like to add to your feeding program as well. 

Ta-ta!

Hoof Flares

We've all seen a hoof flare--that unnatural outward bending of the hoof wall, usually on the bottom part of the hoof.  It's the result of many things, but commonly occurs when hooves are trimmed infrequently or incorrectly.   Flares have become increasingly common on domestic horses today, but a flared hoof is not natural and is definitely not healthy for the horse. 

While visiting a stable with a friend this past weekend, I was reminded of just how bad hoof flares can get.  The picture above is a horse that was supposedly trimmed by a traditional farrier just a few days prior.  Aside from having bad flares, the horse had two extremely unbalanced front feet.  For a natural trimmer like myself, it was a sad sight. 

A flare is simply a separation of the hoof wall and coffin bone.  It is also known as a stretched white line.  You can easily see a severe flare (like the one above), and many times, you can feel a slight flare if you run your fingers down the hoof.  They can occur on the toe or the quarters (sides) of the hoof. 

Flares are not comfortable for the horse.  You could compare them to your fingernail being pried away from the skin on your finger.  Every time the horse's flared hoof wall comes in contact with the ground, it's prying the wall away from the coffin bone.  This is why overgrown and flared hooves tend to crack and break away in chunks.  It's the hoof's natural defense mechanism for getting rid of the flare and the pain. 

So what can be done about flares?  They need to go!  You won't be able to get rid of a bad flare in one or two trimmings, but if you keep up with correct, frequent trimmings, you can get them under control.  Horses in wet climates are especially prone to flares and may need to be trimmed as frequently as every 2-3 weeks.  If you don't trim your own horses, which many of you probably don't, find a trimmer/ farrier who knows what the heck they're doing!  Even a traditional farrier should know that flares aren't a good thing. 

Pete Ramey suggests the flared hoof wall should be taken out of ground contact and beveled all the way to the sole.  This will put the sole in contact with the ground, but that is far more comfortable than a stretched white line.  The sole was actually meant to help bear the weight of the horse.  You can also rasp the outer, bottom 1/3 of the hoof wall to help eliminate flares.  You don't want to do too much at once, but this will help get them under control more quickly.  The goal is to get the entire hoof at the same angle as the wall that is growing down from the coronary band at the top of the hoof. 

Hopefully, this post sheds some light on flares for you.  They are a nasty nuisance to our horses, but they CAN be corrected and eliminated!

Ta-ta!

Magnesium for Horses

Magnesium--it's more than just a symbol on the periodic table.  It's a major mineral that you and your horse both need!  Up until a few years ago (when I took equine nutrition courses), I had no idea of how important it was in the horse's diet.  According to Dr. Eleanor Kellon, VMD, "Magnesium is involved in so many aspects of the structure and function of the body that it's virtually impossible to think of anything that doesn't involve magnesium." 

The National Research Council (NRC) recommends 0.015 grams of magnesium per kg of your horse's bodyweight (per day).  While magnesium is found in forages and many commercial feeds your horse may be consuming, it may not be enough.  The only sure-fire way to know how much of the mineral your horse is getting is by testing your pasture or hay and closely examining your feed labels. 

Common signs of a magnesium deficiency are:

• irritability
• hypersensitivity
• muscular symptoms (twitching/ spasms)
• stilted gait
• reluctance or inability to canter
• difficulty controlling hind end when turning

However, these are also symptoms of exessive calcium, so you will want to make sure you're not feeding too much calcium instead (i.e.--alfalfa).  The optimum Calcium to Magnesium ratio is 2:1.   

Equine nutritionists and vets may also prescribe supplemental magnesium for extremely anxious or  spooky horses and also for horses with insulin resistance or laminitis.   Studies have shown observable benefits of feeding magnesium for horses with these conditions.

When I learned to balance my horse's diets, I found that they all needed more magnesium (along with several other minerals).  I have one horse in particular that I've noticed a considerable difference in since balancing her diet.  She's always been on the irritable side (or what I always called 'marish'), had extremely sensitive skin, and has been continuously sore in the back--all symptoms that go along with magnesium deficiency.  Since being on a balanced diet however, these symptoms have improved noticeably.

So where does one get magnesium?  It's a common ingredient in many supplements, but to solely increase magnesium and not other minerals, you will want to feed magnesium oxide or a supplement like Quiessence. I get my magnesium oxide from Horsetech, but I hear that some feed mills carry it as well. 

Ta-ta!

Natural Trimming Basics

I've been trimming my own horses using Pete Ramey's natural trimming methods for the last two years now, and I can honestly say that their feet have never looked better.  We're not quite to the 'gravel-crunching' level yet, but I think we're getting there.

I know a lot of people are becoming more interested in all things 'natural', including the natural trim.  I think there are even some farriers out there who've jumped on the natural trimming bandwagon, even though they know very little about it.  To me, if you are truly a natural trimmer, you don't shoe horses as well. . .  One farrier even told my husband (who also went to farrier school) that he just tells people he does the natural trim and that gets him business.  If you're an owner and you haven't done the research yourself, you'd probably have no way of knowing.

I am by no means a natural trimming expert, but I have studied the method quite a bit and trim at least one horse a week.  For those that want to learn to trim their own horses or just want to know what a natural trim looks like, I wanted to share the basics.  This is by no means a detailed tutorial on natural trimming.  I highly recommend Pete Ramey's book, Making Natural Hoofcare Work for You or his dvd series, Under the Horse to learn more about it.  His website is a great place to start, too.

Before you ever attempt to trim, you should study a diagram of the inner structures of the foot.  The natural trim uses the coffin bone's shape and placement in the hoof capsule as a guide.  You should understand how to gauge the coffin bone's position before ever laying a tool to the hoof.  With that said, here are the natural trimming basics:

1.  Place horse on a level surface and note any imbalances or flares.  Note if the horse leans forward (sign of heel pain) or leans back (sign of toe pain).

2.  Use the sole callous as a visual guide for trimming .  Never pare or rasp into live sole, but do scrape away dead sole with your hoof knife.  It is usually powdery or flakes off easily.  Pay close attention to scraping away dead, chalky sole in the seats of corn (V between bars and wall near heels)--it tends to build up there.

3.  Trim the hoof wall so that it stands 1/16 inch above the sole.  Trim it just slightly shorter in the quarters (so that a credit card could fit under that area if the horse were standing on a flat surface).

4.  Trim the heels at the level of the wall, but never trim long heels drastically in one trimming.  You may need to work your way down in several trimmings.  (Yes, we actually want low heels!)

5.  Trim the bars level with the heels.  If the bars have been neglected, they may be folded over and run over part of the sole.  You may have to carefully trim them back with your hoof knife. 

6.  If the frog has any loose flaps, you can cut those away.  I tend to leave the frog alone for the most part though.

7.  From the outside of the hoof (usually with a hoof stand), rasp flares on the lower 1/3 of the hoof flat.  You want the lower 1/3 of the hoof to eventally be at the same angle as the hoof growing down from the coronary band. 

8. Finish off with the 'mustang roll'--a round beveling of the wall all the way around the hoof (except heels).  Using my rasp, I start the mustag roll from the bottom of the hoof, but then finish from the top using my hoof stand. 

9.  Inspect the hooves again while the horse is standing on a level surface to make sure hooves are balanced. 


And those are the basics!  Of course, I've left way more out than I've included here, but that's why there are books and dvds and entire websites dedicated to the natural trim.  Hopefully this will give you some insight though.  And if I can trim my horses, you can too.  Knowledge is more important than brawn here!

Ta-ta!

Home Remedies & Acupressure for 'Gunky Eye'

First of all, I'd like to preface this post with the statement:  I'm not a vet.  If your horse has a condition that your unsure of, take him to a vet for a diagnosis.  With that said, occasionally my horses get gunky eyes for one reason or another, and I usually just treat it myself.  Three of them have the eye gunk currently, so I'm guessing that it's some sort of viral conjunctivitis (pink eye).  I thought I'd share a couple homemade remedies for treating conjunctivitis in horses and a few acupressure points that can help clear up eye problems.


Here are the remedies (borrowed from an equine rescue website):

Conjuntivitis Remedy #1:  
Steep several tea bags ( black tea is strongest ) in a cup of hot water (distilled water is safest). Bring to lukewarm temperature.  Wash each eye with soggy tea bag saturated in tea.  Wash carefully, do not break open the tea bag.  Use several tea bags for each eye to make sure the eye is thoroughly cleansed and do not use same tea bag on both eyes, it could cause contamination.  Do not dip tea bag back into tea, this will contaminate tea mixture, also.  The tannin in tea has antibiotic properties. 

Conjunctivitis Remedy #2:

Using unpasteurized honey, mix 3 tbs. honey in 2 cups of boiling water (distilled water is safest).  Stir to dissolve, cool, and use as an eye wash.  Unpasteurized honey has antibiotic properties.   

Note:  I haven't used either of these remedies yet, but I plan to as soon as I can get the ingredients. I'll probably try the first remedy since tea is cheaper!

Acupressure Points for Eye Problems

You can apply slight pressure with your forefinger to these points.  Hold for about 10-15 seconds or until you see a 'release' from the horse, such as head-lowering, licking, or chewing. The points are bilateral so use them on both sides of the horse.  If the horse won't tolerate you touching a certain point, just skip it.

Bladder 1: benefits eye disorders; located just in front of the inside corner of the eye (not on the eye itself)

Bladder 67:  clears the eyes; located just above hoof, 2/3 of the distance from the front to the back of the hind hoof on the outside of the leg

Stomach 1: used for all eye problems; located directly beneath the center of the eye

Large Intestine 4: benefits the eyes; located in the 'valley' on the inside of the 'knee' when you pick up the front leg (you have to feel for it by running your fingers around the backside of the 'knee' when the leg is held up as you would hold it when cleaning the hoof)

                                                Acupressure Points for Eye Problems

These are just a few natural remedies for treating gunky eyes or other minor eye problems.  Again, if you suspect your horse is ill or there may be something else going on, please see your vet!

Ta-ta!

The Grazing Muzzle

It may look strange or just plain cruel if you've never seen a horse with a grazing muzzle on.  "What is that thing?" many a friend has asked when seeing one of my horses in a grazing muzzle.  The muzzle is not to keep the horse from biting (although it would probably work for that!), but it's to reduce grass intake.  And it might just save your horse's life.

Growing up, we had four (or more) horses kept on about two acres.  We never had a problem with an overabundance of grass.  I had never heard of things like laminitis or insulin resistance back then.  When I got married, my husband and I bought thirty acres.  We fenced off a five-acre pasture, and again, I never worried about how much grass my horses had access to.  I rode nearly every day, and my horses weren't fat.

Fast forward to 2011.  I now had five horses in two pastures--both with more than enough grass.  Four of these horses were what I'd call obese.  I had two small children so riding time was limited.  I had recently completed two equine nutrition classes as part of my acupressure certification and had learned just how bad too much grass can be for your horse.  I knew I needed to do something.

I know it seems ironic that grass can be bad for a horse.  Aren't horses, like, supposed to live on grass?!?  Well, the wild horse actually evolved in the desert regions where vegetation was sparse.  They covered many miles a day as well.  Many of our domesticated horses today are actually in quite a different environment than their ancestors.  And while it may look pastoral to see the fat horse grazing peacefully on the lush, green pasture, it's actually not a good thing.  It seems we're seeing more and more overweight (and under-exercised) horses these days.  And researchers believe insulin resistance and laminitis are on the rise.

Anyhoo, back to my topic--grazing muzzles.  If your horse is overweight, shows symptoms or has been diagnosed with insulin resistance or laminitis, a grazing muzzle may be the way to go (unless you want to keep your horse in a dry lot and feed low-sugar hay).  There are some laminitic horses that can't tolerate any grass at all.  But if they can, a grazing muzzle can greatly reduce the amount of grass they eat.

I use grazing muzzles on three of my horses, but not all of the time.  They've gotten used to them and don't seem to mind them too much.  I have one horse who simply doesn't like the grazing muzzle though--she will stand in her stall and pout all day if I leave it on her.  I've actually done several things to limit my horses grazing-- we re-fenced our pastures, making them smaller, I keep the horses in their stalls/pens during the daytime hours in the spring/ summer (since sugars in grass are highest during the day), and I use the grazing muzzles.  It's really helped to keep their weight under control.  Hopefully, we won't be seeing any laminitis or IR around here!

To read more about safer grazing, I suggest Katy Watts site, or this article from The Horse.  


Ta-ta!

Is Thrush Causing Heel Pain in your Horse?

In the past, I never worried too much about thrush.  I knew what it was, and it only happened in horses kept in wet pens or dirty stalls.  I knew it always presented with a black mush in and around the frog and a foul odor.  Well, it turns out I was wrong.  I've since learned that thrush can happen in nearly any horse--no matter what their environment, and it doesn't always look like thrush!  It's caused by a bacteria or fungus, and if left untreated, it can cause permanent lameness.

So how do you know if your horse does have thrush?  It can be a little difficult to recognize when the foot doesn't present the classic symptoms.  If your horse appears to have heel pain--long, stretched toes (symptom of toe-first landing), has contracted heels, or high bars, he may have thrush.  Also, a spongy frog or a deep groove in the central sulcus (groove in middle of frog) can be a tell-tale sign.  If your horse is barefoot, put him on cement and see how he stands.  A horse will tend to lean forward if he has heel pain.

Many people automatically think 'navicular' if their horse has heel pain.  That may not be the case though--it could very well be thrush, which is much easier to treat!  If in doubt, I would treat for thrush.  Pete Ramey, an expert in natural trimming,  recommends soaking an infected hoof in lysol (follow dilution directions on bottle) for 30 minutes 4-5 days in a row.  Or for a topical treatment, mix 50/50 triple antibiotic cream and athlete's foot cream ('Pete's goo') and apply in the central sulcus.  If you'd rather buy a product, White Lightning is a good one.  To read more about thrush causes, symptoms, and treatments see Linda Cowles website.

Ta-ta!

Prebiotics and Probiotics for Horses

Whether we like it or not, there are bacteria living inside us all--including our horses.  But bacteria gets a bad rap, usually.  Along with the harmful bacteria that can cause illness, there are also beneficial bacteria that help the gastro-intestinal system work properly.  Since horses ingest forage on a continual basis, these 'good' bacteria help with the process of fermentation of the forage in the gut.  They keep things in balance.  And horses are prone to many digestive problems when things get out of balance.  If a horse is exposed to a wide variety of plants which he can graze on, he will naturally consume these good bacteria.  Many horses are kept on overgrazed pastures, in dry lots, or in stalls, though.  These horses, along with very young or old horses may need a little help--a prebiotic or probiotic may be called for.

What exactly are probiotics and prebiotics?  Most people don't really know the difference.  Well, a probiotic a product containing live microorganisms that benefit the digestive tract. That's right--it IS the good bacteria!  Probiotics are good to feed during stressful situations such as long transport, changes in feed (which should always be made slowly), or after an illness, surgery, or round of antibiotics.  According to Dr. Kellon, VMD (my equine nutrition instructor), two good probiotics are Equine Generator and DFM-EQ.  You usually don't need to feed them long term though.

Prebiotics, on the other hand, are actually 'food' for the good bacteria.  They stimulate the growth and activity of the good bacteria.  Many feeds or feed ingredients such as beet pulp, flax, yeast, or psyllium are prebiotics.  You can feed them daily to promote a healthy gut.  Two great manufactured prebiotics are Ration Plus and Forco.  I personally feed Ration Plus and have seen its benefits.

So how do you know if you're horse could benefit from a pre or probiotic?  As I mentioned before, probiotics are good during times of stress and usually aren't fed long term.  Prebiotics are good for any horse, but if you're horse is having trouble holding weight, suffers from chronic diarrhea, is prone to colic or ulcers, has a poor appetite, or has poor coat/ hooves, he could very well benefit from a good prebiotic.  Of course, you should always check with your vet first (especially for chronic diarrhea cases).

Hopefully, I've explained the differences between pre and probiotics well enough.  It's important to know what you're feeding before you feed it!

Ta-ta!

To Stall or Not to Stall--That is the Question

Many performance horses are kept stalled  for the majority of time, but is this the best practice for keeping horses?  In my opinion, as well as others who have done research on the issue, the answer is no.  If in doubt, I always go back to the wild horse.  I try to keep things as natural as possible, and lots of turnout is natural.

That's not to say I never stall my horses--I do.  But here are the reasons why I do it:

• to limit spring grass (especially in my overweight horses)
• to allow for some 'gravel time' to keep their bare hooves in shape
• or in extreme weather (for me extreme is a foot of snow or several inches of ice on the ground)

I usually only stall for up to six-eight hours at a time, too (except maybe in cases of extreme weather).  I much prefer my horses to be outside when they can, though.  I'm sure many horse owners have their reasons for stalling as well.  If you don't have some good ones, you may want to reconsider your horse's living situation though.  I wrote an article (based on a scientific study) for The Horse called Are Stabled Horses at Increased Risk for Colic?  You might want to check it out.  There are also articles out there that explain the detriments of stalling on the hoof.  Movement is crucial for proper hoof development and healthy maintenance.  

If you do stall for any length of time, making sure your horse has hay to munch on for the majority of the time is very important.  Even an obese horse being stalled to help with weight loss will not lose weight nearly as quickly if he is starved.  A horse's gastro-intestinal system is designed to constantly digest forage.  That's probably why the full-time stabled horses in the study I wrote on were found to be at increased risk for colic--not enough forage. 

So what is the answer when stalling is sometimes necessary or beneficial?  For me, it's about balance. I have a lot of grass and several overweight horses.  They are at risk for laminitis in the spring especially.  I try to keep them off of the grass or muzzled during most of the daylight hours during the spring (and fall).  They are always turned out at night.  If you don't have a lot of grass, or if your horses aren't overweight, there may be no reason to stall them whatsoever.  There are some good reasons to keep a horse stalled--just keep in mind the downfalls of stalling before you decide to do it.

Ta-ta! 

Natural Trim: Consistency is the Key

Ok, so we all usually have good intentions with our horses, whether it be, 'I'm going to ride five days a week,' or 'I'm going to clean the stalls every day,', etc, but sometimes we fall short with trying to keep up with these goals.  Before I had kids, I was actually really good at keeping my horse-related promises, but it's difficult now, as you other moms can probably relate.  But one thing I've really stuck with over the last couple of years is consistent trimming of my horses' feet.  And it's really paid off.

Why is it so important to be consistent with the natural trim?  And what will it possibly hurt if you let the hoof go a little longer between trims?  Well, it all goes back to the wild horse, whose hoof we aim to model with the natural trim.  Wild horses are constantly moving; they travel for miles, often over rocky terrain every day.  This movement is what keeps their hooves in perfect shape, and it would work for our domesticated horses too if they lived the same way.  The wild horse doesn't need to have his hooves trimmed because he does it himself, little by little, every day.

The wild hoof is quite a bit different from what we are used to seeing with domestic horses.  The heels are low and the toe is short, often measuring around 3 1/2 inches in length.  The toe is rounded in what we call a 'mustang roll'.  The sole is tough and concaved, and the frog is thick and rubbery.  And they do perfectly fine traveling over nearly any type of terrain. 

So back to my questions above.  If our goal is to model the wild hoof with the natural trim, we will be defeating the purpose if we let the hoof wall grow too long.  The sole is made tough by being allowed to participate in weight-bearing.  By keeping the walls trimmed conistently, we allow the sole to bear weight, allow it to toughen, and allow it to concave.  If the walls constantly bear all of the horse's weight, the sole will remain an idle passenger and will never toughen to the point of allowing the horse to be ridden barefoot comfortably.

So when people say, 'My horse just needs shoes --barefoot just doesn't work for him,' it's probably because he isn't being trimmed consistently.  There is a transition time that all horses need to go from being shod to being barefoot, but they will never reach the point of having rock-hard soles if you don't stick with it.

I trim my horses every four weeks (and one of them every two weeks).  It works well for me because I only trim one or two a week, and it's something I can keep up with.  And it's made all the difference in the world for their feet--they look great!

For more information on natural trimming, check out www.hoofrehab.com, Pete Ramey's site. 

Ta-ta!

Acupressure--What the Heck Is It?

Over the last three years since I've become certified in equine acupressure, I've had to do a lot of explaining to people of what it is exactly.  The first thing that comes to people's minds is needles.  That, my friends, is acupuncture.  Acupressure is also an ancient Chinese healing modality, but it uses pressure from your fingertips instead.

Acupressure is seen by many as a form of massage.  It's basis is much deeper than that, though.  According to Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM), there are twelve major meridians that flow throughout our bodies (animals, too).  They can be seen as 'energetic pathways'.  Within these pathways flows Chi, which is somewhat difficult to translate into Western terminology, but probably the best way to describe it is 'life energy'.  Chi flows continuously throughout these meridians on a twenty-four hour cycle (Western medicine refers to it as the Circadian rhythm), keeping the body functioning as a whole.

Problems arise when Chi becomes 'blocked' in a certain meridian.  According to TCM, this is the beginning of illness or pain.  The theory behind acupruessure (and acupuncture) is that one can release the blocked chi by applying pressure to certain points along the meridians, known as acu-points.  These acu-points often have very specific anatomical locations, so finding them can be a bit tricky for the layperson.

If all this sounds a little hokey to you, just remember that we often shun what we don't understand.  I was once completely skeptical about all of this, too.  Learning about TCM and acupressure was part of the larger paradigm shift that I went through a few years ago, though.  I've realized that there is much more out there than what's in our little American bubble of 'medical treatment'.  Not to say that we haven't made some amazing discoveries and advances in treating illnesses here.  We definitely have.  But our way isn't the only way.

What I love about TCM is that it addresses the person or animal as a whole.  When a horse is experiencing pain of some sort, the problem is looked at from a whole-body perspective, not just that one area where the pain is manifesting. 

Anywho, I'll get off my soapbox now.  I just wanted to explain acupressure for those of you who may be interested in learning more about it.  Don't knock it 'til you try it!  I've done acupressure sessions on myself and my husband with noticeable effects.  Horses can't tell you if it's helping them, but once you've been doing acupressure for a while, you can see how it affects them as well.  My horses all love it!  More information on animal acupressure can be found at www.animalacupressure.com, if you're interested.

Ta-ta!

Pea Gravel for the Barefoot Horse

Pea gravel as stall bedding?  While some may think it sounds uncomfortable, it can actually be one of the best forms of stall bedding for the barefoot horse.  First, let me explain what pea gravel is.  It is the small, round stones often used on playgrounds or landscaping projects.  If you were to walk barefoot in pea gravel, it actually is quite comfortable. 

Now, I don't keep my horses stalled for a long period of time, but they do spend some time in their stalls each day.  What does the pea gravel do?  Well, it stimulates the frog and increases blood circulation (as shown in a study by Robert Bowker, VMD, PhD), toughens the sole, and helps to keep the hoof wall worn down, possibly increasing the amount of time your horse can go between trims.  If your horse has problems with thrush or seedy toe (white line disease), the pea gravel can help to eliminate it by drying out the hoof.  I've seen noticeable changes in my horses' feet since putting the pea gravel in their stalls last year.  The horses don't seem to mind it at all, either.

Pea gravel doesn't necessarily have to go in your stalls--it can go in any area of your pasture or paddock where your horse frequents.  It can be a little costly up front, but I am convinced that in the long run, it will save money.  I've had my pea gravel for over a year and haven't had to replace it yet.  It makes cleaning stalls very easy (with a cherry picker) and it drains well.  My stalls are never soggy anymore. 

Dr. Bowker recommends putting 3-6 inches of pea gravel in your stalls (or other areas) to get the maximum benefits of it.  I don't have quite that much and have still seen hoof improvements.  Getting another load of pea gravel is on my husband's to-do list, though.  I have one more stall that needs the gravel since getting another horse last fall, and I'd like to add more pea gravel to the other stalls.

The only drawback  I've noticed with the pea gravel is sometimes finding a tiny rock lodged in one of my horse's hooves.  It's never caused a problem, but I'd advise checking your horse's feet routinely to keep them cleaned out. 

Ta-ta!

Is Grain Necessary?

Graining horses is one of those customary practices just about every horse owner does.  But did you ever stop and think about why you feed grain?  Is it really necessary?  You may feel like a bad horse parent if you don't give your horse some sort of feed from a bag, but the truth is, most horses don't need it!  Think about wild horses--they do just fine on forage.  It's actually all a horse was ever meant to eat.  Unless your horse is in hard work and needs the extra calories, he probably would do just fine on pasture or hay alone.

Here are three reasons why you probably don't need to feed grain or a commercial feed:

1.  It's just extra calories your horse probably doesn't need.  If your horse is only ridden lightly or is just a pasture pet, he probably doesn't need anything other than pasture or grass hay.  If you want to give a handful of feed just because it makes you feel better, then go right ahead though.

2.  High-grain feeding is linked with colic and other equine disorders  (see Equine Grain-Associated Disorders).  A horse's stomach is quite small in comparison with the rest of its gastro-intestinal system.  It's not meant to handle large amounts of food at once.  

3.  Most commercial feeds do not contain the minerals horses need, nor do they contain the correct ratios of needed minerals.  Many people feed a bagged feed thinking they're providing these minerals.  It's simply not true.  Minerals are a whole 'nother topic (and one I'll surely get to), but don't think they're being covered by most feeds!

Now, with that being said--I am not saying 'Don't feed your horse.'  Yes, a horse needs to eat!  Horses typically need to eat about 1.5% to 2.5% of their body weight on a daily basis.  They can easily get this amount by eating grass or hay, though.  They easiest way to assess whether or not your horse needs more calories is  by his body condition score (BCS).  If he's holding at a 5--you're doing the right thing.  If  he's a 6 or higher, you could probably use some cutting back. 

It seems everyone has an opinion when it comes to horse nutrition.  My advice is to research things for yourself though.  Dr. Eleanor Kellon, VMD, offers some enlightening equine nutrition courses online.  This is where I got my start in equine nutrition edu-macation.  It's changed my whole outlook on feeding. 

Ta-ta!

Laminitis: A Real Risk

Laminitis (also known as 'founder') can only happen when your horse gets into the feed bin and eats to much grain, right?  Wrong!  Many horses develop laminitis from simply being on pasture.  But knowledge is power in this case--you can help to prevent laminitis before it happens.  Not every horse is at risk, but typically, your overweight, 'easy-keepers' are more likely to become laminitic.  Ponies and small horse breeds are also at higher risk.

Spring and fall are the worst times of the year for full-time pasture grazing because these are the seasons when sugars are at their highest in the grasses.  Also, remember that process you learned about in middle school called 'photosynthesis'?  Well, it plays a part in laminitis, too.  During the day, plants convert carbon dioxide into sugar using the sun's energy.  The sugar in plants is highest in late afternoon/early evening on a sunny day. 

So what should you do to prevent laminitis from occurring in your horse?  Horses that aren't exercised consistently or are overweight can be kept in a dry lot (no grass) during the daylight hours (and fed hay) and then grazed at night when sugars are at their lowest.  You can also limit grazing during the spring and fall.  Another option is a grazing muzzle.  I use these with several of my horses.  The muzzle allows them to graze through a small hole and limits their grass intake.   The muzzles take a little getting used to and they may not be for every horse, but it's a good option if your horse will tolerate it--that way they can still be 'out and about' with their buddies. 

There are tons of great websites where you can get more information on laminitis.  A great one is safergrass.org.  Laminitis can be quite serious and many horses are put down because of it.   An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, though.  You can take precautions before it happens to your horse.  Educate yourself and your horse will thank you!

Ta-ta!

Acupressure for Colic

I think nearly every horse owner knows that colic is nothing to fool around with.  I've had my share of colic experiences for sure.  My horse, Bob, had impaction colic surgery 3 1/2 years ago and we lost another horse last summer to complications from colic (twisted gut, I believe).

If you're an experienced horse owner, you've probably learned to recognize the signs of colic, whether it be your horse laying down in an unusual spot, showing little interest in eating, or just that 'look' in his eye that isn't quite right.  Once you know your horse is colicking, all the possible outcomes start running through your mind (at least that's what happens to me). 

Colic is definitely something to take seriously and many times, you will want to call your vet.  You may have your 'colic toolbox' at home, too, and many people will start treatment there.  I think most people are aware of the usual colic remedies like hand-walking your horse and giving banamine, but another effective tool is acupressure.  And yes, even you can learn to do it!  I'm not saying acupressure should EVER replace responsible veterinary care--it shouldn't!  You may want to try it though if the colic appears mild or while you're waiting for the vet to get there. 

My horse, Bob (the one who had colic surgery), was showing signs of colic last night and again this morning.  I immediately started applying pressure to the 'colic' acu-points.  Both times, the pain seemed to resolve quickly.  I've used these points before on him and other horses with success as well.  Now don't get me wrong--I checked on him frequently all last night and all day today.  I was prepared to head to the vet if he showed any more signs.  After his acupressure sessions though, he began grazing and acting normally.  I will continue to check on him frequently to make sure we don't have any more problems tonight or in the next few days.

To read about and see a chart of some commonly used 'colic' acu-points, see my article "Acupressure Points for Equine Colic".  You can also purchase the book, Equine Acupressure: A Working Manual, to learn more about acupressure and how you can use it to help relieve common equine conditions.  This book is what led me to attend an equine acupressure program and become certified--it's fascinating!

Once again, I am NOT advising anyone to try to treat serious cases of colic yourself.  Call your vet if your horse is in serious pain or if symptoms persist.

Ta-ta!

Learning the Natural Trim (#1)

I have to admit--one of the reasons I was attracted to my husband was the fact that he was a farrier.  It's saved me thousands of dollars over the years.  But every mechanic's wife knows that her car is last on the priority list.   And so it became with my horses.  I had to constantly nag him to trim or shoe my horses.  I found that sometimes, it was easier just to pay another farrier to come out.

For years, my husband told me that I should learn to trim my own horses.  I said, 'yeah, right!'.  I'm what you'd call a 'slight' person, and I didn't think there was any way in heck I could trim a horse.  I knew nothing of hoof mechanics either.

Fast forward to Fall, 2010.  My beloved gelding, Hershey, had been mysteriously lame for three years.  His feet looked awful, with big cracks extending up the middle of both front feet.  I suspected white line disease.  My world had recently changed due to two things:  the birth of my son in 2007 and my completion of an equine acupressure program in 2009.  I now had less time to spend with my horses, but a newfound and ever-growing interest in all things 'natural' relating to horses.  It was in acupressure school that I met Lu, a woman from Montana who was a natural trimmer.  I consulted her about Hershey, and she urged me to find a natural trimmer here.

After a desperate search for a so-called 'natural trimmer' in my area, I came up empty-handed.  I began to research natural-trimming for myself and decided that it wouldn't hurt to try it.  After all, Lu did it for a living.   

I bought Pete Ramey's book, Making Natural Hoof Care Work for You, and spent hours reading and taking notes.  I read nearly every article on his website www.hoofrehab.com.  I also bought his dvd set, Under the Horse.  It's been an arduous process, and I'm finding I still have much to learn.  Even with all my newfound knowledge, I found that I was still scared to death of hurting my horses when I trimmed.   After my husband's guidance and hours and hours of practice, I became more confident.  One of the hardest parts for me has been physical labor involved with trimming a hoof.  It took me forever to trim one hoof at first, and trimming two hooves was all I could do in one day.  You definitely have to build up your stamina when trimming horses.  I can now trim one or two horses a day.  I know, it's not great--but it's an improvement.  I have five horses, and I trim one a week. 

I think the most amazing part of this whole do-it-myself-natural-hoof-trimming process has been the knowledge I have gained.  I knew nothing of the internal structures of the hoof before.  Now, I understand the function of the coffin bone and I can recognize symptoms of toe pain or heel pain.  My husband has told me that I probably have  a greater understanding of the hoof than most traditional farriers (which is scary and satisfying at the same time!)

Anyways, my point is, if I can do it, you can sure as heck do the same.  I'm not advising anyone to take nippers to a hoof if you don't have a pretty good understanding of the internal hoof structures.  An uninformed trimmer could do a lot of damage (and many have, I'm sure).  Get an education first.  Whether it's attending a clinic, reading every book and website you can find on natural trimming, working with an experienced natural trimmer, etc.  But, you can do it!  My horses feet are looking better than ever.

For more reading on natural hoof trimming, see my article "Doing your own Natural Hoof Trimming".

P.S.--Back to Hershey.  It's been nearly five years since his lameness appeared.  I spent thousands of dollars during the first year or two, taking him to nearly every vet around.  Not one of them looked at his feet.  I am really suspecting that they've been the culprit all along.  He is now on a strict regimen for treating white line disease and even though I know there's probably some internal damage since it's been going on so long, I am hopeful at returning him to some state of soundness.  He's the reason I started this journey so I'll continue to do everything I can to get his hooves in the best possible shape.  I'll keep you updated.

Ta-ta!

Introductions

Hi there!

My name is Casie Bazay, and I am a freelance writer, nationally certified equine acupressure practitioner, and full-time mom.  After owning horses for nearly all of my life, I've recently discovered that I can do many of the things that horse owners would normally pay someone else to do.  Sure, I like to save money like most frugal-minded people do, but I also have an intense desire to do what's best for my horses.  Sometimes, that means taking matters into your own hands.  As a fairly new mom, I'm learning to really pay attention to my motherly instincts.  They're usually spot-on.  I've also realized that these same instincts apply when you're a horse mom (or dad!) as well.  I think deep down, we all know what's really best for our horses.  

Anyhow, I've learned more about horse care just in the past five years than I learned in the previous thirty.  I am by no means an equine expert, but I would like to share some of the things I've learned, as well as help other horse owners begin their own journey into do-it-yourself horse care.  That's why I've started this blog.   I hope you will find it informative!

Ta-ta,

Casie